1. Consider a guide, no matter how tough you are.
Even if you are the most rugged and seasoned of international backpackers, we recommend using a guide at some level of your trip. The main reasons are threefold:
(1) You will get much more out of your experience. Guaranteed. The landscapes of the Gurage Zone are a treat to see, but even more rewarding is the chance to understand local culture and customs and make a new friend. Even if you know some Amharic, the odds are slim that you will be proficient in any of the many local languages. You may also have unique opportunities to learn about local birds, trees, and crops, or even take a peek inside a traditional Ethiopian house which are available to few mainstream tourists.
(2) You are supporting the local economy. Most guides are ambitious young men who love their communities and will be the most likely to give back to them in the short and long term.
(3) You avoid getting lost or misunderstandings with the local people. The maze of village paths are the major thoroughfares for the locals in the Gurage Zone but can be confusing for new visitors. Some locals are also suspicious of foreigners, and they will probably come across much friendlier if they can communicate to you through a guide and see that you are interested in and supporting their community in such a way.
**More to come on recommended local guides**
(1) You will get much more out of your experience. Guaranteed. The landscapes of the Gurage Zone are a treat to see, but even more rewarding is the chance to understand local culture and customs and make a new friend. Even if you know some Amharic, the odds are slim that you will be proficient in any of the many local languages. You may also have unique opportunities to learn about local birds, trees, and crops, or even take a peek inside a traditional Ethiopian house which are available to few mainstream tourists.
(2) You are supporting the local economy. Most guides are ambitious young men who love their communities and will be the most likely to give back to them in the short and long term.
(3) You avoid getting lost or misunderstandings with the local people. The maze of village paths are the major thoroughfares for the locals in the Gurage Zone but can be confusing for new visitors. Some locals are also suspicious of foreigners, and they will probably come across much friendlier if they can communicate to you through a guide and see that you are interested in and supporting their community in such a way.
**More to come on recommended local guides**
2. Learn some language.
Whether you simply learn "hello," goodbye," and "thank you" in Amharic or try to go more in depth or even learn some of the local languages of the Gurage Zone, a little effort on your part will go a long way with the generally friendly people of the Gurage Zone, who will see your efforts as a gesture of respect towards their culture. Here are a couple links:
http://www.kwintessential.co.uk/resources/language/ethiopian-amharic-phrases.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE4wsD9qoeU
Recommended books:
The best way to learn the local Gurage languages (Meskalenya around Butajira, Siltenya, Sebat Bet Gurage, etc.) is probably through a guide. You may also contact the author of this website for some pointers on Meskalenya. Amharic is generally understood throughout the zone, perhaps with the exception of young children or some of the elderly. If you are planning on a long-term stay, commit some your time every day to memorizing words - you won't regret it. Don't be intimidated by the different alphabet of the Amharic language - there are strategies to learn this quickly, and with a little effort, this whole alphabet can be learned in a week or two.
http://www.kwintessential.co.uk/resources/language/ethiopian-amharic-phrases.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE4wsD9qoeU
Recommended books:
- Ethiopian Amharic (Lonely Planet phrasebook) by Tilahun Kebede --- This is the best bet if you are staying for a relatively short term and want to keep it simple but still learn useful phrases.
- Concise Amharic Dictionary by Wolf Leslau --- This will help you to build vocabulary if you are truly interested in learning the language.
- Colloquial Amharic by David Appleyard --- This book serves as a good complement to the dictionary above for the more eager traveler wanting to make a more serious investment in language acquisition.
The best way to learn the local Gurage languages (Meskalenya around Butajira, Siltenya, Sebat Bet Gurage, etc.) is probably through a guide. You may also contact the author of this website for some pointers on Meskalenya. Amharic is generally understood throughout the zone, perhaps with the exception of young children or some of the elderly. If you are planning on a long-term stay, commit some your time every day to memorizing words - you won't regret it. Don't be intimidated by the different alphabet of the Amharic language - there are strategies to learn this quickly, and with a little effort, this whole alphabet can be learned in a week or two.
3. Understand the transport system.
If you hope to move around the Gurage Zone (and Ethiopia in general) without paying an arm and a leg for transportation, you will need to understand a little bit about how the system works. The beauty of the transportation system is that you can get almost anywhere in the country on public transit for low prices, but please read some of our pointers before attempting to do so:
- Minibus: Minibuses are the primary method of travel between different towns of the Gurage Zone. Though they are reasonably safe, especially when compared to other modes of public transit, there has been an increased rate of accidents, especially on major highways. Between some of the larger towns, you may also use regular-size buses. Rates between towns vary (as a reference the going fare is 55 birr between Butajira and Addis Ababa, 20 birr between Butajira and Ziway, and 50 birr between Butajira and Wuhjebar). All of the major towns have bus stations, with routes usually leaving at least every hour from sunrise to close to 5pm (to avoid confusion, remember that "Ethiopian time" starts at sunrise, so add 6 hours to the standard time). There is usually little organization - just know the name of the town you hope to go to, and one of the overly ambitious bus workers will show you to the right bus. Avoid carrying bags that cannot sit on your lap. If you have to carry a big bag on the roof, never agree to pay more than half of the normal passenger fee for the carriage of your bag. Most bus workers will know some English, but it can be a major advantage to know at least your Amharic numbers here.
- Bajaj: Bajajes are the preferred method of transit between lesser destinations outside of or within towns. If you catch a Bajaj from one of the informal Bajaj stations and pack in dangerously with many other Ethiopians, the fares can be extremely cheap. However, most drivers assume that all farangi will want to travel " contract," where the Bajaj takes you or your travel buddies alone for a higher price. This is probably the safest option. Going rate for a 10 kilometer contract ride on good roads is 70 birr. Remember, if you are in a place with many Bajajes, the best method of negotiating is to simply walk away if a driver refuses your price offer.
- Gare: These horse-drawn carriages are a quaint and extremely low-cost option. However the are NOT RECOMMENDED due to their high frequency of accidents, especially traveling downhill.
4. Farangi Fever!
If you are white-skinned, or even dark-skinned but not Ethiopian, you will likely experience a heavy dose of Ethiopia's racism, which is usually without bad intentions or malice. Nonetheless, you will probably attract curious onlookers and begging children no matter where you go, and you will perpetually hear the word "fa-wren-gee" shouted at you. The best thing you can do is ignore these annoying calls, or if you are feeling comedic, smile and wave. To avoid any unnecessary extra attention, here are some tips for friendly intercultural interactions:
- You are not a National Geographic photographer: Don't pull out your camera and take pictures of every person or cute kid you see, unless you have been given their explicit permission. Yes, you are in Africa, but please treat people with respect, and ask yourself, " would I do this at home?" before you take a picture of a complete stranger.
- Dress as you would back home: Just because you are going to Africa does not mean you will need a ridiculous safari outfit or should wear all of your rattiest clothing. Ethiopians like to dress at or sometimes above their means, and you may feel hopelessly out of place if you dress like you were going on a safari. Showing the legs is generally not acceptable for men or women (except when playing sports), but women should be especially conscious not to expose their legs or wear very tight clothing. Fortunately, the climate of the Gurage region is very comfortable, with highs ranging from the 50s and 60s in the highlands to the 70s and 80s in the Rift Valley throughout the year.
- Smile: Try to see the humor in it all, and chill out, even when people seem to be laughing at you or talking behind your back. Try to have some empathy, and remember, if extremely rich people drove past your house in land cruisers and strange clothing, occasionally muttering something in a foreign language, and snapping random pictures of your everyday life, you would probably make a big deal about their arrival, laugh at them, or see if you could make some money off of them, too.
- Don't give money to beggars: As a principle, you are not going to solve the social problems in a country by giving handouts. Of course, you have to make your own judgments, but be aware that parents sometimes send their children to beg from foreigners. If you are extremely affected by what you see, consider investing in a reputable organization working in Ethiopia or give food rather than money.